Sailing in Belize, an Interview with Captain Cliff Wilson

By Alex Gamero

Cliff Wilson is the owner and captain of the Aubisque Catamaran. He has been sailing in Belize and taking guests to explore its coastline for many years. We talked to Cliff about his views on sailing in Belize.

Tell me about yourself. Where were you born? What do you do? What key moments in your life have brought you to where you are today?

I have been a sailor at heart most of my life, and finally got bored with being a lawyer, so we sold everything, bought a boat, and moved to Belize. My wife was sweet enough to go along with my plan. We have been married for about 33 years.

Belize is not as popular as destinations like the Bahamas and the Virgin Islands when it comes to sailing. Why should sailors consider exploring the coast of Belize?

Why Belize? For the reason we picked it. It boasts the second-longest barrier reef in the world, it is not crowded like the Easter Caribbean, and only hours away from anywhere in the US. You can still find anchorages that you will have to yourself (in fact, most of them are that way), and it has not been over-fished so far. Belize has been at the top of the list for divers and salt-water fly fishermen for years. It just has not been brought to the attention of the general public.

The extensive coral reefs in Belize have been known to wreck quite a few number of vessels. What is the navigation like on these waters?

Navigation -- yes, the barrier reef made Belize the premier pirate hide-out for many, many years. It is difficult, and the charts are outdated. It is not a good idea to attempt a bare boat charter here, although TMM and the Moorings are doing a fair amount of business. It took me about six months of exploring before I could start to enjoy myself, as opposed to being constantly watching the charts, the depth sounder, and maintaining a bow watch.

Belize is in the tropics, which produces sunny skies on some day and not so sunny skies on others. What is the weather like? What are the wind conditions? What is the best time of the year for sailing?

Weather -- tropical. Basically, it is the same as any other location in the Caribbean at this latitude. Winter months see cold fronts coming from the north every 3 or 4 days, which bring squalls from that direction. Squalls are very localized rainstorms, that hardly ever last more than a few minutes. You can be anchored in the sunshine, with thunderstorms on either side of you, or have one on top of you. The summer months see trade winds, with tropical waves coming from Africa every 3 or 4 days, which bring squalls from that direction. Basically, the weather is wonderful most of the year, unless you get a hurricane.

There are many different types of sailboats. The one that seems to be the most popular in Belize are catamarans. Why is this?

Catamarans are most popular in Belize because they are shallow draft vessels, and can get to many, many more locations than a mono hull.

One of the main features of Belize’s coastline, aside from the barrier reef and atolls, is the hundreds of islands that stretch north to south. Most are small mangrove and coral islands, while the larger islands harbor booming towns. What are some of your favorite anchorages?

My favorite anchorages are (in no particular order), the Drowned Cayes (lots of manatees and mangrove critters), St. George's Cay, South Water Cay, Caye Caulker, San Pedro, Placencia, Robinson's Cayes, Goff's Caye, Tobacco Cay, Tobacco Range, Bluefield Range, Garbut's Cay… There is something for everyone at each location. Some guests want to be isolated -- others want a beach bar to go to.

Aside from the many anchorages to explore, what activities can one enjoy when out sailing in Belize?

Activities include kayaking, fishing, snorkeling, swimming, sunbathing, napping, reading a book, enjoying a rum drink and much more . . . .

The majority of travelers who charter a sailboat are sailors themselves. However, people who are not sailors can also go sailing by chartering a sailboat with a captain. Why should a non-sailor consider spending his vacation (or at least part of his vacation) at sea as opposed to a hotel?

Anyone who wants to spend some serious time exploring the reef should be on a sailboat. There are a handful of land-based resorts on the reef, but being on a boat permits you to see more than just one location.

Are there any final words you would like to say for those who might be considering sailing the coast of Belize?

To summarize, it is great fun to explore the second-longest barrier reef in the world aboard a luxury catamaran.

Belizean Culture & History - an Interview with Lita Krohn

Lita Krohn has a profound expertise on the culture and history of Belize. She was a professor of History at St. John’s College. She was the director of the Belize House of Culture. And now she is the director of the museum of Belize. In this interview she talks about the different cultural annual events like Garifuna Settlement Day, Independence Day Celebrations, Maya Dear Dance and sporting events like the Ruta Maya River Challenge. She also talks about Belize’s cultural diversity a unique mixture of different ethnic groups who together share the unifying cultural identify of being Belizean. (Click on the headline link to watch this video)

Independence Day Celebrations in Belize - Color, Music & Culture

Independent, Strong and Free, Belize fi all ah We!

Belize's Independence Day is approaching with 3 weeks of festivities leading up to it. Don't miss the chance to enjoy this unique culturel experience! September is a festive time of year in Belize. It is a time of year that celebrates our history, our culture, our people; our nation. This small and independent country of 8,867 square miles and approximately 250,000 people has much to commemorate and be proud of. It is a time when Belizeans, of all ages; young, middle-aged and senior citizens all take pride in celebrating Belize! People all over the country gather at public venues to enjoy entertaining and educational performances in honor of two very important national holidays, which fall in the month of September. These are the Battle of St. George's Caye Day (September 10th) and Independence Day (September 21st). It has been tradition in Belize that the Celebrations start in early September leading up to the first national holiday on St. George's Caye Day and continuing into Independence Day, extending the festivities to almost three weeks.

Radio stations begin playing popular beats, unique to the September Celebrations that are heard only during this festive time, which serves as a reminder to all listeners that the festivities are coming soon. The September Celebrations also means that one can expect to see official road marches, children and adults waving the Belizean flag everywhere, hearing lots of soca and punta music and people dancing in parades, and seeing buildings dressed up in the red, white and blue streamers, which are the colors of Belize's Flag. It is also a reminder that people in Belize can all expect to look forward to other traditional and newly planned events.

Traditional events that have constituted the September Celebrations include the Queen of the Bay Pageant, Carnival Parade, St. George's Caye Day Citizens Parade, Expo, Official Independence Day Celebrations, and live musical concerts. New events will include the Cultural Explosion, Belize Sound Fest 2007, 26 years of dance, children talent parade, and "we are Belize"- in music. A complete Calendar of Events is posted on this website. Be sure to take a look so you don't miss out on any event that may be of great interest to you.

So whether you are a first time visitor to Belize, a returning resident coming home to joyfully reminisce or like most Belizeans living home, this year's September Celebrations is sure to get you up and moving to the Belizean beat. We especially invite you to come out and celebrate with us Belize's birthday, its history, its music, its culture, its food, and its people.

The winning theme: “Independent, Strong and Free, Belize Fi All Ah We” was submitted by fourteen year old E.P. Yorke Highschool student Esther Humes. "Belize Fi All Ah We" is creole (the language spoken throughout Belize) and means - Belize For All of Us. The teenager was awarded a thousand dollar cash prize for her effort.

Cockscomb Basin Jaguar Preserve - Home of the Jaguar

Located in the Stann Creek disctrict, the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary covers 150 square miles. In 1986 it was declared a protected reserve by the government. It was formed to protect its dense population of jaguars – approximately 200, the largest concentration in the world. When hiking through its trails, keep a keen eye out for this elusive and enigmatic cat. You may be one of the lucky few. (Click on the headline link to watch this photograph collection)

Black Hole Drop - 400 Feet Repelling Down a Steep Cliff Wall

The Black Hole is a large sinkhole where the ground has caved into an underlying cave, forming a huge hole in the ground that drops 400 feet. The hike to the sinkhole takes about an hour, going over 4 hills. It can be a strenuous hike but u will go at a comfortable pace. As you head up the 4th hill you get your first view of the massive opening and looking at the cliff face you begin to get butterflies about repelling off of it. Next, you strap on you harness and go over the edge. This is by far the hardest part, trusting the rope. It's a bit scary at first, but you won't regret it. After that, it’s a scenic descent 400 feet to the bottom. (Click on the headline link to watch this video)

Actun Tunichil Muknal Cave - Entering the Maya Underworld of Xibalba

Actun Tunichil Muknal means Cave of the Stone Sepulcher. This water cave was "discovered" in 1989, and it was quickly realized to be a gold mine of Mayan artifacts. Over 1400 artifacts - pottery, tools and other ceremonial items have been catalogued within the cave. The bones of several sacrifical victims, adults and children, have been found here as well. The most famous of which is the Crystal Maiden, a 20 year-old female sacrifice. (Click on the headline link to watch this photograph collection)

20 Questions with Emory King, the great Belizean Historian

By BelizeMagazine.com

Please tell us where and in what year were you born? What was it like as a child growing up in your hometown? How has the town/district changed since your youth?

Emory King: I was born 22nd February, (Washington's Birthday), 1931 in Jacksonville,
Florida. I was soon orphaned and was raised by my grandparents. The Great Depression was in full swing when I was born. The middle-class neighborhood was in decline; many people had lost their homes and the properities were becoming rentals.

In spite of all that I had a wonderful childhood. There was little crime, the people around us felt we were all in the same boat and therefore helped each other when necessary.

Just before I was 11 World War II came to the USA. Suddenly there were jobs and money in Jacksonville. The shipyards along the St. John's River multiplied and military bases mushroomed. It was an exciting time for a youngster, but not dangerous.

I wanted to be a chemist, but failed algebra in junior high school and that shut out the natural sciences for me. Of the social sciences, I chose to be a writer. Being bone lazy I figured this was the only way I could earn a living sitting down.

I graduated from high school in 1949 and went off to Florida State Unbiversity where I majored in journalism. After that I went to Tampa, Florida where I became a crime reporter for the Tampa Daily Times. It seemed so exciting.

In six months I was sickened and disgusted with crime reporting. It was nothing like the movies or the detective novels. You do not meet the best people in that line of work.

About this time I met four fellows who were going to sail around the world. I figured every young writer should sail around the world, at least once. I was 22 and too green to burn, so I quit my job and went with them. We sailed out of Tampa on November 1, 1953.

When did you first come to Belize, under what circumstances did you arrive and personally become involved with the concerns of the people of Belize?

Emory King: After visiting Dry Tortugas at the end of the Florida Keys and Havana, we went to Progreso, Yucatan, Mexico. A wind storm pursued us from there to Isla Mujeres. Two weeks there and we went south. Passing Cozumel I asked the captain where we were going next. He said Belize. I said I'm tired of Mexico. He said Belize is a town in British Honduras.

I had never heard of British Honduras. On a beautiful moon-light night in December, 1953 our yacht ran up on a reef of staghorn coral at English Caye. The Lighthouse Keeper from the caye, a Mr. Ely, and his sons soon got us off the reef and around in the lee of the caye.

We did not sink. The next morning we limped into Belize. What an exotic, wonderful place. In addition to that, the people spoke English!

The boat required a whole new bottom, which virtually bankrupted us. Later, when they decided to have the boat towed back to Florida behind a rusty old tramp steamer, I decided not to go. I couldn't swim and did not want more ocean excitement.

A kindly lady told me perhaps I could get a job teaching at St. John's College, a Jesuit High School. The Superior of the Jesuit Mission said no, he did not need another teacher. He needed a Public Relations Officer and Director of Alumni Affairs.

So, there I was at 22 a thin, frightened boy of Protestant background, suddenly the PR man for a Catholic Mission in Central America. Wow.

In the next two years I traveled the Colony, visiting Catholic schools in every District, town and village, and meeting everyone who was anyone from British Colonial Civil Servants to mulecart drivers.

The Movement of Liberation had begun three years before and was headed for Independence. I was facinated by the idea of a group of people wresting freedom from the Mother Country, just like the American Revolution--but without the bloodshed. I did all I could to help.

What do you consider to be the primary challenges for the people of Belize in the 21st century?

Emory King: The same things that challenge every society in every age throughout the world - food, clothing and shelter, education, health, defense, and spiritual guidence to survive.

What are you doing to educate the youth of the country of Belize regarding the challenges facing them?

Emory King: Not as much as I would like. I write for the newspaper weekly, (sometimes weakly), I lecture on the history of Belize to students, tourists, potential investors and retirees. However, because of political problems I am not asked to lecture to students as much as would be good for them. I have written many books on the history of Belize, but they are politically unacceptable to the politicians. Perhaps the next generation will benefit from them.

How will the current governmental fiscal restraints challenge the people of Belize?

Emory King: The financial problems of the Government will be solved one day. In the meantime no one entitled to a pension cheque from the Government has failed to receive it; no one entitled to a Social Security cheque has failed to receive it.

The amount of cars running on $8.00 a gallon gas keep on rolling and increasing every month. Houses are being built in every village, town and city. All will be well.

Can you tell us a highlight to date of your life spent in Belize?

Emory King: Take your pick:

I was instrumental in bringing the Mennonites to Belize in 1958. They have brought about a revolution in agriculture in the country.

I brought the first movie, "The Dogs of War" to Belize in 1980. That led to "The Mosquito Coast" and others as well as hundreds of television shoots.

In partnership with Net Vasquez I brought the first private Earth Station to Belize in 1980, although I am not sure how proud I should be of that. It started the television business in Belize and you know how bad it is and how potentially good it could be.

I introduced Michael Ashcroft to the proposal of the Royal Bank of Canada to sell off their branch in Belize in 1987. This turned out very well. Michael has done nothing but good for Belize since then, in spite of what politicians and jealous people say.

I was instrumental in bringing the first hydroelectric plant to Belize at Mollejon in the Mountain Pine Ridge in 1990.

Can you tell us a highlight of your personal life that defines who is Emory King?

Emory King: Meeting George Price in 1954. Becoming a Catholic in 1955. Meeting
Elisa Deogratia Vasquez in 1955 and persuading her to marry me in 1959. So many things shape a person's life. Picking out one is impossible for me.

Having an occupation as 'The Film Commissioner of Belize' as well a noted published writer and newspaper correspondent, obviously occupations that are demanding both mentally and physical, what do you do to keep in shape?

Emory King: Nothing. I am bone lazy. I do not exercise. I do not push myself away from the table. I do not smoke since 1995 when the doctore told me to quit after 50 years of smoking an average of 5 cigars a day. I don't drink any more. I don't drink any less--Irish whickey if I can get it, Chivas Regal Scotch if necessary.

What is your favourite past-time occupation?

Emory King: Reading and researching Belizean history.

What was it like to be associated directly with the hugely successful movie 'Mosquito Coast' that starred Harrison Ford and no doubt brought the world to Belize?

Emory King: It was a delight. Harrison was great guy and so was his wife, Melissa. Everybody treated me very well and treated everyone in Belize very well too.

I asked the Government for the second time to appoint a Film Commission to promote Belize as a place to make movies, but they said no, the movie people know we are here now and they will come. It was 8 years before we got the next picture.

Despite the fact that you have been the visionary behind the film industry in Belize, during the 2005 Belize Film Festival held in February at 'The Bliss Center', you were noticibly absent though you are the embodiment of the industry in the country. When our attending correspondent questioned the festival spokesperson, she declined to comment. What is your current relationship with the filming industry today in Belize and why were you absent?

Emory King: I had and have very serious reservations about the Film Festival, but I agreed to Produce the first two. I feel that Belize should promote a film indusrty in Belize to do two things: One, create jobs for Belizeans and Two, bring hard currency to the country.

The Director of the Festival is of the opinion that the festival should concentrate on Third World films and works done in the Caribbean and Central America.

My view is that they have no money, they are not coming to Belize to make pictures and they will not provide jobs for Belizeans. They have their problems and we have ours. Let Belize concentrate on getting Hollywood, Pinewood and Canadian film makers here with their stuff. That will, in addition to everything else, fill the seats at the Festivals. The Director and I came to the parting of the ways.

What do see to be the future of the film industry in Belize?

Emory King: I am afraid it is going to be tough. The tragedy of 9/11 frightened Hollywood about going overseas. They may be getting over that now, but Canada has started offering such extensive tax advantages to Hollywood that poor Belize hasn't much of a chance.

In addition, and worse, the present political situation in Belize , because it is broadcast over the internet every day, has sent shock waves throughout the film industry, not only in the US and Canada, but UK as well. This goes for TV production as well.

We know that all of this is a propaganda war and that nothing much has happened here, but the internet reports have scared off a lot of potential film shoots.

So, we soldier on, trying to calm the fears and regain the three or four shoots a month we had before the G-7 fiasco.

What is the greatest outdoor adventure you have ever experienced in Belize?

Emory King: I don't have outdoor adventures. I prefer indoor adventures.

What is your most favourite Belizean food dish? What are your most favourite locally grown fruit and most favourite vegetable?

Emory King: Porterhouse steak from Running W Meats with mushrooms. Fruit: mangoes, vegetable: cho cho.

Have you ever had the luck to see any of Belize's exotic wildlife such as a jaguar, tapir or the like? Have you ever been bitten by a scorpion, snake or spider?

Emory King: I suppose you don't mean jaguars, tapirs, etc.inside the delightful
Belize Zoo? No, I don't go where they live. I was bitten by a scorpion once. It was hidden in a towel in my bathroom. I killed it.

Although the Belize Maya have many archaeological sites, in your opinion, what are the historically significant sites in Belize for the Kriol or Garifuna people that should receive more focus and attention?

Emory King: The Graifuna have been very good at promoting their culture at home and abroad among themselves and to strangers. They have a memorial statue and park near Dangriga.

The Belize Creole history goes back long before the Garifuna, but only recently have any attempts been made to glorify it. It's coming, but it will take more time and more research.

Which of the Maya archaeological sites in Belize have you visited? Which site was the most fascinating for you??

Emory King: I suppose I have visited all the sites in Belize and I am left cold by them. I am not hostile to them, but they leave me uninterested. I don't know why. They are good for tourism.

What are the top three books we should all read in our lifetime?

Emory King: "The Source" by James Michner. This will give the reader an in depth
review of the development of western civilization.

"Belize, 1798--The Road to Glory" by Emory King. The book which could lay to rest the canard that the Battle of St. George's Caye was a myth! It will give the reader an idea of the people who lived here, loved here and stayed here to lay the foundation of our Independence.

"The History of Christianity in Belize--1776-to-1840" by Wallace Johnson. A comprehensive research of how the Anglican, Methodist and Baptist churches got started in Belize. The author quit before the Catholics arrived.

Who would be on your list of favourite Belizean artists, writers or musicians? Who would be on your list of favourite non-Belizean artists, writers or musicians? What kind of music do you like to listen to?

Emory King: Artists: Pen Cayetano, Carolyn Carr, Mr. Nicholas; Writers: Zee Edgel, Sir Colville Young, Emory King; Musicians: Pen Cayetano, Andy Palacio, Sir Colville Young. I don't pay much attention to non-Belizean artists, writers or musicians. My favourite music is from the 70s - not the 1970s - the 1770s. Mozart, Beethoven, Bach, Händel etc.

How would you answer the question, "What is Belizean Culture?"

Emory King: There is no such a thing as Belizean Culture. There is Garifuna Culture, Creole Culture, various Maya Cultures, Mestizo Culture, East Indian Culture, etc. Every year when we send girls off to International Beauty Contests we have the unsolvable problem of creating a national dress.

Belize is so ecologically diverse with abundant natural beauty. What do you consider to be the most beautiful spot in all of Belize?

Emory King: There are so many.

What is your favourite vacation spot outside of Belize?

Emory King: I don't take vacations either inside or outside Belize.

What would you consider to be the greatest asset of Belize? What do you consider the biggest challenge for Belize and Belizeans in the 21st century?

Emory King: Our greatest asset is our English-speaking people who have been educated in Church schools and who are determined to make Belize a better place to live. Their biggest challenge is to see to it that the political and spiritual values of our past are not destroyed.

You are a long time author of major books regarding life and culture in Belize. Are there any current projects that you would like our readers to know are forthcoming??

Emory King: I am finishing my 15th book - a booklet really - which will be called "The George Price I Know" It is my recollections of my personal experiences with The Father of Our Country plus a number of letters written to each other.

Belizeans have always been intrigued about the events surrounding the Hurricane of 1931 that so devastated Belize City. What can you tell us about you knowledge of the actions of the British Government the day the hurricane struck Belize City??

Emory King: The Governor and a number of British Colonial Officers, plus a few prominant Belizeans knew of the storm coming on the 10th of September 1931. They decided among themselves to not tell the people.

It was a holiday with thousands of adults and children ready to march in parades, but no official announcement was made. Over 2,000 were killed.

What is your opinion regarding the current political tensions in Belize that have gone so far as to have the opposition call for the resignation of the democratically elected government of Prime Minister Said Musa?

Emory King: The Opposition in any Commonwealth Country which operates under the Westminister system is ready (theoretically) at a moment's notice to assume
the reins of government. Our Opposition really thought that the Government was in such turmoil that it could stampede it into resigning. They were wrong.

Fortunately, the whole thing quieted down before there was any bloodshed or deaths. Property damage was serious, but not extensive. Unfortunately, the media deliberately made such a hullabullo about it that the rest of world believed we were on the verge of complete collapse.

We recently noticed that your property and home are for sale. Are you planning to leave the country that you have called your home for so many years and if so why?? If you are not leaving, why are you selling your beautiful home??

Leave Belize? Never!!!! A few years ago I bought a cemetery lot at Lord's Ridge Cemetery for $7. I certainly have no intention of leaving Belize and losing my real estate investment in the cemetery lot.

When we built our home about 23 years ago there were 7 people living there: my wife and I, our two sons, her mother and father and an adopted son of theirs. They are all gone now excpet my wife and I. We have 4,000 square feet under roof on two storeys with 5 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms. In addition there is a house for our yardman on the property. The land amounts to five acres.The place is just too much for my wife to handle. I am going on 75 and my wife is almost 70. It is time to build a smaller place.

What would you most want someone reading this article to remember about what a one Emory King has to say?

Emory King: Belize is English-speaking and part of the British Commonwealth, and is a democratic Christian country. If that ever changes Belize will be no more.

Ras Creek - Caye Caulker's Most Colorful Character

Bert Nicholas is known to most by his nickname – Ras Creek. Although at first glance he might seem like just another hippy-rasta, he has an intuitive understanding of the sea. He was a key figure in the discovery and development of Shark-Ray Alley and the Sea Horse Ranch, turning them into must-see tourist destinations. His colorful Bohemian personality captivates all those who meet him. Whether you like him or not, and he’s one of those persons where there is no in between, there is no denying his passion for life and what he does. Take a ride on his boat, the Heritage Cruise, and let him show you his home of Caye Caulker. (Click on the headline link to watch this video)

Being Belizean - American, Born in Belize & Now Living in the USA

By Nicole McKinstry

My name is Nicole McKinstry and I consider myself to be a Belizean-American. I was born in Corozal, Belize which is the most northern town of Belize that borders Mexico. Since I was plucked from Belize at the tender age of six months, I cannot describe our house, what we did, or even what we ate, but even so, my home in Houston was the setting for a variety of Belizean holidays, traditions, and routines.

My family’s history points everywhere else except residing in Belize. My grandparents on my father’s side are from Barbados, whom after whirlwind travels to Africa, England, and other parts of the West Indies, simply just fell in love with this Caribbean escape and decided to settle there. They built a farm in Cayo which believe it or not, was next door to my mom’s farm, but their love story didn’t begin until later on. I’m told my grandfather built the house and a boat at the farm by himself. He was called crazy for building a boat so far away from the sea, but when a hurricane came and flooded parts of Belize he was the one smiling and waving in the end.

My mother’s side holds our Lebanese and Scottish roots. I do not know much history of this side because a lot are scattered throughout Belize, Honduras, Guatemala, and the States. I do know that I have to eat taboule, which is an Arabic dish that my taste buds do not agree with and that names like Nazha, Aisha, and Nasim run in my family. Speaking for my Scottish side, the only thing I can manage to say is there are a lot of us and we are Catholic. Period.

My parents to this day have spent 50% of their lives in Belize and the other half of it in the States. They managed to spend their childhood, adolescence, and part of their adulthood in Belize and with that comes many aspects of Belizean culture. We, Belizeans like food. We like rice, beans, rice and beans, and meat - and plenty of it. Since my parents grew up on this staple diet (or lack of), we at home in Houston eat rice and beans or rice with beans for most of the week. Being the hyphenated American, we also enjoy our baked potatoes, Tex- Mex food, and any other cuisine, but for the most part it’s an unmistakable choice every night - rice and beans or rice with beans.

As part of any culture, there’s its music. I like to think my parent’s met under a musical moon, or for the not-so-romantic, at a dance. My dad was one of the few white, non-Spanish of Belize and I think my mom liked him for that very reason. My mom was at a dance with her friend who desperately wanted to go home because no one would ask her to dance, while my dad was trying to coax my mom for a spin. My mom refused to leave her friend so my dad got one of his friends to do him a ‘favor’, and the line, “Can I walk you home, Ms. Reyes?” at the end of the night was it. The type of music I’m sure was played at the dance was the hits of the bell-bottomed 70s, as well as the Belizean flare. In Houston, Belizean music was and still is part of my life. At any celebration, party, or a simple get together my family plays Belizean hits from artists such as Gil Harry, Punta Rebels, Titiman Flores, and Griga Boys, as well different Caribbean genres like calypso, soca, and ‘rockers’. Now we simply have added that basis and incorporated American music into our festivities. But I must say, no one is as rhythmically enhanced as a Belizean.

Moving away from the music of Belize, there is an even more important culture trait which is language. It is important to note that yes, the official language of Belize is English, but when you hear it, it doesn’t sound like English a foreigner can easily identify with. This is the language of Belizeans, which is called Kriol. There’s been arguments across the board that say the dialect of English Belizeans speak is exactly that, just a dialect. There are others who say Kriol is a full blown language having a uniform grammatical system. Whatever your stance is, it is different. As a Belizean-American my family and friends speak to me in both Kriol and in English. I do hesitate in answering them back, but I’m completely aware of what it is they are saying. My parents talk to each other and amongst their friends in Kriol and when I was smaller they would constantly refer to me and my siblings as ‘pickney’ a Kriol word meaning kids, which I think more sounds like rodents than anything else. I’ve been scolded with not particularly Kriol sayings, but sayings said in Kriol, like “you deh fly past ya nest” or “you only deh one ruud lee baby”. The first means you’re going too far from what you know and you’re bound to get in trouble and the second means that I never did anything right as a child. Jokes and stories were always told in Kriol within my family. I still relish in listening to my grandfather tell stories of wrestling with snakes, meeting my grandmother, and doing daredevil stunts- true or not, with a hint of Kriol they are so much more compelling and entertaining .The point that I’m trying to make is that my ears have grown accustomed to Kriol. It’s a cultural trait that I may not have by the reins, but I think I’m stably mounted on the horse.

Being a Belizean-American is not an identity crisis for the most part, it can be frustrating on where I check under ethnicity or if people ask me, “So what exactly are you?”, because I’m simply bewildered as what to say. I’m still compelled to say Belizean for the most part, but my geographical location says differently. I like being American because honestly I do have better opportunities as an American than as a Belizean. Being American things can be overwhelmingly fast-paced, but things are on time and there when you need it. I have more options of anything I could desire in the U.S., but on the other hand, I identify much more with Belizean Culture because of what my family has instilled in me. Belizeans have a sense of strife, a desire for working with your hands, and a more relaxed view on life. Things seem to slow down in Belize, money although wanted and needed, is not more important than family. To be honest, I wish Belize was better off economically and politically than it currently is, but that’s in the hands of Belizeans that are there. The handful of Belizeans I have met here in the States that have left Belize or are studying abroad, always have that urge to do something for their country and that speaks of the quality of its vibrant people, no matter where their lineage or location lies. Belize is in its own sense is a melting pot just like the States is deemed and in the end as a Belizean-American, I am just blessed with the two.

Happy Adventures!

Nikki

Maya Ruins of Lamanai - Last Surviving Maya City

Located in the Orange Walk disctrict, Lamanai had one of the longest histories known in the Maya world, being continuously occupied from 1500 BC to 1675 AD, up to the arrival of Spanish conquistadors. It offers one of Belize’s largest ceremonial centers, perched right along the New River Lagoon. Howler monkeys and many species of tropical birds live in the surrounding jungle. Nearby lay the remains of an old sugar mill as well. (Click on the headline link to watch this photograph collection)

Ranguana Caye, Belize Deserted Island

Belize has over 200 islands dotting it's coastline. Most are tiny mangrove islands. Some are large islands with vibrant towns like San Pedro and Caye Caulker. However, among these many islands, are beautiful deserted islands picked right out of a magazine. Ranguana Caye sits beside the Barrier Reef about 18 miles of the shore of Placencia. It's white sand beaches are washed by crystal clear waters that just beg you to jump in. You can comb the beach, take a refreshing swim, do some sea kayaking, snorkel the reef or just relax under the shade of a coconut tree with a good book or cold drink. (Click on the headline link to watch this video)

The Creole Language, Belize's Unique Language

by Alex Gamero

If you look at the faces of Belize they represent a diverse cultural landscape. There are Creoles, Mesitzos, Mayas, Garifunas, Mennonites and many newly immigrant groups such as Chinese, Lebanese and East Indians. Despite their different cultural roots, the one thing that everyone has in common is the Creole language. It is one of the cornerstones of being Belizean.

But isn’t the official language of Belize English? Yes it is. Our educational, legal and political systems were adopted from our colonizer, Britain. Every child who goes to school learns to read and write with English textbooks. However, it’s when the bell rings and children storm out to the playground that they learn a different language. Playing marbles, catch, football or hide-and-seek, kids communicate in Creole. Take as an example a newly immigrant Chinese family. Their son is born in Belize and goes to a local school. At home he speaks Mandarin with his parents, in class he learns English, but with his peers, outside of school, he learns Creole. And it’s this way that a language unites so many different cultures in Belize, no matter what you’re background, when you grow up in Belize you learn to speak Creole.

What is a Language?

But is Creole really a language? To answer this question we must delve a little into the science of linguistics. The linguistic definition of a language is a form of speech used by a group of people with a unique set of vocabulary combined in uniform patterns (syntax) to convey meaning (semantics). By this definition, Belizean Creole is a bona fide language. On the surface Creole might seem like just a dialect of English, because it borrows a lot of its vocabulary, but in many ways its grammar is different. Let’s take 2 simple examples, of saying the same thing in Creole and English:

English: Let me do it. (Use of an object pronoun)
Creole: Mek ah du it. (Uses a subject pronoun)

English: Where is he? (Verb in the middle of the question)
Creole: Da weh ih deh? (Verb at the end of the question)

There are many different Creole languages, many of which are found in the Caribbean and South Pacific. There’s even a Creole spoken in Louisiana. Although they are all referred to as Creole languages, they are each unique. For example, someone speaking Belizean Creole cannot converse with someone speaking Hawaiian Creole. So what are Creole languages and how are they formed?

When speakers of different languages come together and have to communicate, but don’t have the opportunity to learn each other’s language, they develop a makeshift jargon called Pidgin. There are two big examples in world history in which this happened. They are the Atlantic slave trade and indentured servitude in the South Pacific. In the Hawaiian sugar plantations, indentured workers were brought from China, Japan, Korea, Philippines and other varied countries. They had no way of communicating in their native languages, and so they put together words as best they could, and this is Pidgin. According to the linguistic definition, Pidgin is not a real language. It is just a few vocabulary words thrown together with no real grammar. They don’t have consistent word order, no prefixes or suffixes, no tense or other temporal and logical markers, no structure more complex than a simple clause, and no consistent way to indicate who did what to whom. As a result, a lot of the meaning conveyed in Pidgin is inferred by the context rather than any real meaningful grammar. However, it is in the minds of the children of subsequent generations, with their innate instinct to create language, that the birth of a new language begins. They turn a crude form of communication and essentially create grammatical rules to turn it into a richly expressive language. These new languages derived from Pidgins are what are termed in linguistics, Creoles.

In the case of Belize, it was slaves from West Africa brought by the British that gave birth to its Creole language. Although much of the vocabulary is borrowed from English, there are still words in Belizean Creole which come from native African languages. For example Pinda, which means peanuts, is borrowed from an old African word. And the African roots go even further; Belizean Creole follows more closely the grammar of African languages than English. With time, the Belizean Creole has also had small influences from other languages. Surrounded by Spanish speaking countries like Mexico and Guatemala, it has adopted some Spanish words, like goma, which is Spanish for hangover. Another example is konkas, meaning house fly, adopted from the Miskito Indians of Nicaragua. The history of Belize as a country is embedded into its Creole language. It tells the story of how many different cultures came together to coexist in one land.

In the past, the Creole languages of the world were regarded as “uncivilized” or “broken” speech – imperfect, childish copies of the colonial languages from which they were derived, whether English, French, Portuguese or Spanish. Today, with a better understanding of linguistics, these languages are being recognized for what they are: new linguistic creations with fully-fledged, highly nuanced grammatical systems.

Wap a li Kriol

For native English speakers listening to Belizean Creole you might be able to pick out a few familiar words and infer some meaning from the context, but full comprehension always seems to slip away. So for those of you who want to wap a li Kriol (speak a little Creole) when you’re in Belize, here are some common phrases you can try:

English: My name is…
Creole: Mi naim da…

English: What time is it?
Creole: Da weh taim?

English: What’s up?
Creole: Weh di go aan?

English: Good morning
Creole: Gud mannin

English: Let me have a Belikin beer.
Creole: Mek ah get ah Belikin.

Trekking Around Belize, Adventures in Culture, Jungle & Sea

by Alex Gamero

I was born and raised in Belize City. My backyard was the beautiful Caribbean Sea and lush jungles. As a kid, I remember taking picnic trips to deserted islands, and diving for conch to make fresh ceviche. Going on horseback rides in the jungle or boating up rivers was always a thrill. When I got older and got into the tourism industry, I realized that despite my fun childhood family trips I hadn’t scratched the surface of what Belize has to offer. And so my goal to explore the country began, and still continues to this day.

Belizean Culture

My father was born in Honduras. When my grandfather became the ambassador in Belize, he moved his family, along with my then young father, to Belize. So in many ways, my father grew up as a Belizean. Later, when he went to study in Mexico, he met my mother, and so a new family was born. I was the first generation to actually be born in the country. I tell this personal story, because it illustrates the norm, or rather lack of a norm, of Belizean culture – an interesting mix of people with one thing in common, Belize. I’ve met all manner of colorful characters in my path.

Charles from Punta Gorda, off East Indian descent, is a local entrepreneur with a local cable company, hardware store and guesthouse. He is a quiet hardworking man, who keeps his accounting all on paper and has managed to make a mark in the generally sleepy town of Punta Gorda. He talked to me about his business, telling me how he would offer more soap opera and talk show channels as women were the majority of his viewers. He also mentioned that someday he would bequeath all he had to his sons, saying that he worked hard to ensure his family’s future.

Bob from PG arrived in Belize as a British soldier, and made a home for himself in San Ignacio. He opened Eva’s restaurant along with his Belizean wife, which has become a popular place to hang out and eat for anyone passing through the town. He told me stories of San Ignacio’s past, when there were no roads from the coast and getting there took several days. He said it was like the Wild West, where it was not uncommon to see someone who had a bit too much to drink passed out on a horse strolling away from a dusty bar.

Charlie is a British woman who moved to the small island of Caye Caulker, she married a local, and they formed a successful tour company. She has a bubbly character and is always smiling. Coincidentally her in law is Bert, a colorful Rastafarian who is more popularly know as “Ras Creek” and one of the most interesting personalities I’ve met. He does tours on his boat “Heritage Cruz” which is decorated in bright colors, orange hammocks and a thatched roof lounge. He has a 5 gallon jug water pump with the words “Jah is Water” written across it.

In Placencia, I met a man who I will not name, who claimed to be a member of the Illuminati secret society. He told me of how he had befriended an aging man when he was a student. Then one day, out of the blue, the old man called him to his death bed. There he bestowed him his membership; as the old man gave him his Illuminati ring everyone in the room bowed down to him. He even showed me the ring with the All Seeing Eye, a symbol for the society which is also depicted in the back of the US one dollar bill. When trekking though the country, the one thing that stands out as much as the raw natural beauty is the culture, and how wonderfully diverse it is. Keep an open ear and the stories will wash in.

Best Things to See & Do?

I have done and seen many of the things visitors to the country dream of doing and seeing. I have dived the Blue Hole and with giant whale sharks, explored caves packed with Mayan artifacts, repelled down 400 foot cliffs, waded through saltwater flats hunting elusive permit fish, have seen rare exotic birds, climbed to the top of ancient Mayan temples and still there are corners of the country which I have yet to explore. My life even flashed before my eyes once kayaking down white water rapids in the upper Macal River when I tipped over and got stuck in a whirlpool. Scary! As a photographer I’ve tried to capture the beauty that I’ve seen, and sometimes, just occasionally, it becomes art. I won’t do a list of the “top 10” best things to see or do, as this is a personal experience for everyone. The only thing I can do is mention some of the personal experiences I’ve had trekking around Belize.

Experiences on Land

One of my memorable experiences was exploring the wild jungles of the Orange Walk district. Before starting on my journey, the only thing I knew of this district was Orange Walk Town. Little did I expect the wonderful natural beauty that lay in its back country. I turned off the highway after which it was all off road. One of my first stops was the New River Lagoon. This lake has much to explore, but one of my favorite things about it was how its calm water mirrored the sky, creating a dreamy landscape. I continued further west getting into the Programme for Belize and Chan Chich, one of the largest and most remote protected forests in Belize. In Chan Chich, I slept beside the remains of a Mayan ruin with wild dears parading in front of my room. The sounds of the jungle are mesmerizing, the wildlife is amazing, with something new on every tree and under every leaf.

Another great experience was in the Jaguar Preserve, known for its large concentration of jaguars. I had embarked on a difficult hike to a lookout called Ben’s Bluff, a grueling 2 hour hike on steep rugged terrain. After catching my breadth for a couple minutes the fantastic landscape came into focus. The birds-eye view over the Maya Mountain Range was worth every step, looking over the forest canopy into a horizon of jutting mountains. On the way down I stopped by a waterfall and took a refreshing dip in its cool waters. The sound of water has a way of relaxing the mind like few other things can. A sign by the waterfall read “take only pictures, leave only footprints” a good motto to follow.

Another memorable experience I had was exploring the Actun Tunichil Muknal cave. Belize has many caves because of its karst limestone terrain. Many of the caves are great, but this one definitely stands out. The entrance to the cave is shaped like an hourglass, appropriate since entering it is like stepping back in time. You swim through the entrance, making your way through narrow crevices and huge echoing chambers and sometimes moving along chest high in water. Then you make it up a steep ledge to enter the ceremonial chambers used by the Maya. There are so many artifacts all over the ground that you have to walk barefoot and in a single file. Mayan pots and human skulls are scattered all over. Finally we entered a very small chamber though a tight crevice. There on the floor was the skeleton of a female sacrificial victim, her calcite encrusted bones glimmering in the light. She’s called the Crystal Maiden. This cave is an amazing trip through beautiful geology into the Mayan past.

Experiences on Sea

Some of my greatest experiences on Belize’s Caribbean Sea have been underwater. One of the most famous dive sites in the country is the Blue Hole, on Lighthouse Reef Atoll. This cave collapsed sometime during the Ice Age when ocean levels rose, forming the present sinkhole which is over 400 feet deep. From above you see an almost perfect circle of dark blue water, giving it its name. I descended to about 140 feet. Looking up I saw the rays of sunlight shining down the hole. Down below I saw the deep blue water turning to black. And there I was suspended, floating as if in mid air, with the relaxing sound of my regulator marking my every breath. In front of me were massive stalactites, formed millions of years ago and now stuck deep underwater. It’s an amazing dive, one of many great experiences I’ve had underwater.

Above the water Belize has over 200 islands. Most are just specks of mangroves, but there are some beautiful deserted islands dotted by a handful of coconut trees. One of my favorites is Silk Caye, off the southern coastal village of Placencia. As we speed ahead in our boat, the dot on the horizon turns into an island. The boat docked in the shallow water around the island; we jumped into the knee-high water and walked to the beach. It’s just amazing to stand on a tiny island that you can walk across from end to end in 5 minutes, surrounded by a seemingly endless sea. The white sand beach washed by cool blue waters just begged me to walk in. After some sun, the coconut trees entice me with some cool shade. As the guide prepares a barbeque, I watch some other travelers find their little private corners on the island, enjoying the breeze, the sun and the sea. I’ve been to many beautiful islands in Belize, but this one stands out for me.

Whenever I’m next to the water, whether it’s on the coast or on an island I thoroughly enjoy catching sunrises and sunsets. During the day the sun is too bright to look anywhere near it, but in the morning and afternoon it tames itself enough that you can look directly at this massive fiery ball. I enjoy the magnificent colors, the contrasts with the clouds and the silhouettes formed with the surrounding landscape. Placencia is one my favorite places for them. In the morning the sea is usually dead calm, so as the sun rises from the horizon the water mirrors the cacophony of colors in the sky forming a dreamy landscape. In the evening, you can catch the sunsets over the Placencia Lagoon. Just beyond the lagoon you can see the Maya Mountains. Sitting back with a cool breeze sweeping over the water, it’s a wonderful site to see the tired sun melt behind a those mountains with its last rays glimmering in the water’s surface. Every sunrise and sunset is different, and it’s always fun to go out and see what each day will bring.

A Game of Dominoes

I will end my little expose with a game of dominoes. Once I was in Dangriga, a primarily Garifuna town in the southern coast. Garifuna are a people that stemmed from escaped African slaves and through their struggles and history have created a unique culture of their own. They are also great dominoes players. I was walking down the street past a local hang out spot with several men playing dominoes. Considering myself to be an avid player, as I play a lot with my friends, I asked to play. Even though I was a stranger, and it looked like everyone there knew each other, they welcomed me into the game. It’s a 4 man game and every round the looser steps out, and the next in line steps in. I was surrounded by mostly older Garifunas; in their culture they believe age brings great wisdom and older men are very much respected. I waited a few rounds until it was my turn to play. I sat down and quickly learned that I had overestimated my skills. In dominoes you must count the numbers to weight probabilities – but I did this slow and these guys played hellishly fast. And before I realized it, I was out, on the first round! These guys were good. So I analyzed my strategy, waited my turn again, and when I sat down again I managed to stay in for several rounds, even winning 2 of them! It was a wonderful experience. A few weeks later when I sat down with my friends back in Belize City to play dominoes I told them to bring their best game to the table, as I had played with the old Garifuna masters of Dangriga.